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Reviews
December 20, 2011, 7:32 pm at of sale Noob question… how do you know what to change (i.e. iso vs. shutter vs. f stop) as the light changes.. I noticed as the light changed you changed ISO and shutter speed… so as long as you are within workable ranges.. how do you prioritize which variable you change? (i.e. why change shutter speed vs. going to a lower ISO as it got brighter?)… I understand how each one works.. but just trying to understand if there is a priority for specific circumstances?
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December 19, 2011, 7:47 pm at of sale I’m a semi-pro and I’ve used this camera on a couple of paid jobs now and really love it.
I’ll do an old school good vs bad summary:
The Good
Everything just about; for a CMOS-sized sensor it’s got a really wide latitude and it is AMAZING at high ISOs, (I took a day’s images by mistake at 1250 iso and didn’t even notice until I looked at the data) – the high ISOs allow slower lenses to shine almost as well as their pro competitors. I spent six weeks researching DSLRs around £1000 and this is, I believe, the very best value in the bracket. Colours are terrific, everything is natural. It’s Some reviewers say that the machine even blows away full frame Nikon DLSRs.There is no back focus issue, I think this must me folks upgrading from compacts or somesuch, where sharpness algorithms over compensate for cheap glass, so when you use a DSLR like this for the first time – a full frame RAW image is MASSIVE
The Bad
1. Build quality is really plasticy. This doesn’t usually bother me, so what? I hear you ask. Well, it’s around the handgrip where it fails, the battery compartment doesn’t close brilliantly reassuringly and when you grip the camera, that wee bit clicks a bit – all day long. I shoved a little bit of card in between the battery and the shell and it stopped it. It was really irritating me on shoots.
2. Kit lens is awful. Buy one of the cheap primes for lovely stylish sharp pictures with plenty of dreamy ‘bokeh’ – the 35mm afs lens should be the standard lens for this camera. If you really want a zoom for this machine the 70-300 afs VRII is brilliant.
3. Auto exposure is on the bright side. Nearly everyone agrees on this. Just set your own compensation.
Remember that DX cameras on nikon lenses add to the focal length – so the 35mm becomes a 52mm and so on…
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December 17, 2011, 7:31 pm at of sale Noob question… how do you know what to change (i.e. iso vs. shutter vs. f stop) as the light changes.. I noticed as the light changed you changed ISO and shutter speed… so as long as you are within workable ranges.. how do you prioritize which variable you change? (i.e. why change shutter speed vs. going to a lower ISO as it got brighter?)… I understand how each one works.. but just trying to understand if there is a priority for specific circumstances?
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